In Memory of Bread Page 25

  Derived from a mold: Information on the brewing process and history of Omission Beer are from the author’s interview with Amy Jeuck, December 21, 2014.

  autoimmune reaction in a person: “Beer from Barley Malt Made Gluten-Free with Brewers Clarex” (DSM Food Specialties BV), 1–2.

  According to Omission’s brewmaster: Phone interview with Joe Casey, January 2015.

  Swedish study: “Gluten Content in Beer,” SLV, 2005, trans. Theresa Simoni, “Gluteninnehall i de ol som analsyerats vid Livsmedelsverket.” Livsmedelsverket, Oktober 2005.

  13. Summer Rituals

  David Buchanan: David Buchanan, Taste, Memory: Forgotten Foods, Lost Flavors, and Why They Matter (White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Publishing, 2012), 200.

  14. GF by Choice

  The Gluten-Free Edge was published: See Peter Bronski and Melissa McLean Jory, The Gluten-Free Edge (New York: The Experiment, 2012).

  Some studies suggest: Runners’ forums on the internet are full of conversations on this question, but an interesting scientific study emerged in 1987: “Acute Ischaemic Colitis in a Female Long Distance Runner,” Gut 28, 1987: 296–99.

  it is derived from the Latin: Oxford English Dictionary.

  16. Avoiding the Doctor

  “dispatching a lunch”: A. J. Liebling, “A Good Appetite.” Reprinted in Secret Ingredients: The New Yorker Book of Food and Drink, ed. David Remnick (New York: Modern Library, 2008), 30–45.

  17. Getting GF with America’s Test Kitchen

  popular online recipe: http://food52.​com/​recipes/​28886-my-​new-roots-​life-changing-​loaf-of-​bread.

  Technically an herb: According to the University of Maryland Medical Center, “Psyllium is a soluble fiber used primarily as a gentle bulk forming laxative in products such as Metamucil. It comes from a shrub-like herb called Plantago ovata that grows worldwide but is most common in India. Each plant can produce up to 15,000 tiny, gel coated seeds, from which psyllium husk is derived.” http://umm.​edu/​health/​medical/​altmed/​supplement/​psyllium.

  Thus the dough can trap: The How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook (America’s Test Kitchen, 2014), 21.

  led M. F. K. Fisher to liken: M. F. K. Fisher, “How to Rise Up Like New Bread,” The Art of Eating (Houghton Mifflin Harcourt, 2004), 246–47.

  When I finally spoke to Jack Bishop: Phone interview, July 12, 2014.

  18. Rising Hopes

  Celiac Disease Foundation Conference: June 7–8, 2014, Pasadena, CA. Speakers included Alessio Fasano, MD, founder of the Boston Center for Celiac Research; and Dr. John Zone, professor and chair of the Department of Dermatology at the University of Utah.

  When we met them: June 9, 2014, Whisk Gluten-Free Bakery, Pasadena, CA.

  almost the same process as Omission: For all of my misgivings about drinking a GR beer that is not made in a dedicated GR facility, the process, according to the Stone Delicious IPA website, is much the same. Instead of using Brewers Clarex, Stone uses Clarity Ferm, a clarifying product introduced during the fermentation stage that also disrupts the formation of epitopes. Like Omission, the GR/GF certifier White Labs uses the R-5 Competitive ELISA Gliadin assay, which according to White Labs’ website is able to detect gluten down to 10 PPM.

  track down Eliza Hale: September 15, 2015.

  19. Harvest Time

  One day closer to the winter: December 17, 2015, Heuvelton, NY.

  20. A Bakery of Our Own

  North Country’s first gluten-free bakery: I spoke several times with Chris Durand, most extensively on March 18, 2015. Durand and his staff were trained by the America’s Test Kitchen staff at the King Arthur Flour offices in Norwich, Vermont. Still in the process of establishing his business, he had some stark numbers to share: $147,000 to prep the bakery for opening, and an estimated $1,000 gross per day to break even—which is five hundred $2.00 cupcakes. Like the costs that eaters with celiac disease face at the checkout, Durand’s costs were largely driven by materials: a forty-bag pallet of King Arthur GF flour—“the Cadillac of flours,” in his words—costs $29,000 and has a one-year shelf life. If there was a silver lining, it was that all of that flour had, by his estimate, led to a 69-percent repeat business after the first six weeks.

  Alcock, Joan P. Food in the Ancient World. London: Greenwood Press, 2006.

  Alexander, William. 52 Loaves: One Man’s Relentless Pursuit of Truth, Meaning, and a Perfect Crust. Chapel Hill, NC: Algonquin, 2011.

  Aretaeus. The Extant Works of Aretaeus the Cappadocian. Edited and translated by Francis Adams. London, 1856. Available on Google Books.

  Aubrey, Alison. “Doctors Say Changes in Wheat Do Not Explain Rise of Celiac Disease.” The Salt, September 26, 2013.

  Belderok, B. “Developments in Bread-Making Processes.” Plants, Food, and Human Nutrition 55 (1), 2000.

  Blaser, Martin J. Missing Microbes: How the Overuse of Antibiotics Is Fueling Our Modern Plagues. New York: Henry Holt, 2014.

  Bobrow-Strain, Anthony. White Bread: A Social History of the Store-Bought Loaf. Boston: Beacon Press, 2012.

  Brillat-Savarin, Jean Anthelme. The Physiology of Taste. Translated by Ann Drayton. New York: Penguin, 1970.

  Bronski, Peter, and Melissa McLean Jory. The Gluten-Free Edge. New York: The Experiment, 2012.

  Brussow, Harald. The Quest for Food: A Natural History of Eating. New York: Springer, 2007.

  Buchanan, David. Taste, Memory: Forgotten Foods, Lost Flavors, and Why They Matter. White River Junction, VT: Chelsea Green Publishing, 2012.

  Catassi, Carlo. “Why Is Celiac Disease Endemic in People of the Sahara?” Letter. Lancet 354, 1999.

  Child, Julia. My Life in France. New York: Anchor Reprint Edition, 2006.

  Cicerone, C., et al. “Th17, Intestinal Microbiota and the Abnormal Immune Response in the Pathogenesis of Celiac Disease.” Gastroenterology Hepatology (Bed and Bench) 8 (2), 2015.

  Cortonesi, Alfio. “Self-Sufficiency and the Market: Rural and Urban Diet in the Middle Ages.” Food: A Culinary History from Antiquity to the Present. Edited by Jean-Louis Flandrin and Massimo Montanari. Translated by Clarissa Botsford et al. New York: Columbia University Press, 1999.

  Davidson, Alan, and Tom Jain. The Oxford Companion to Food. New York: Oxford University Press, 2006.

  de Lorgeril, Mike, and P. Salen. “Gluten and Wheat Intolerance Today: Are Modern Wheat Strains Involved?” International Journal of Food Science and Nutrition 65 (5), August 2014.

  Di Cagno, R. “Gluten-Free Sourdough Wheat Baked Goods Appear Safe for Young Celiac Patients: A Pilot Study.” Journal of Pediatric Gastroenterology and Nutrition 51 (6), December 2010.

  Dudley, Robert. The Drunken Monkey: Why We Drink and Abuse Alcohol. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2014.

  Dupaigne, Bernard. The History of Bread. New York: Harry N. Abrams, 1999.

  Eaton, Emily. Growing Resistance: Canadian Farmers and the Politics of Genetically-Modified Wheat. Winnipeg: University of Manitoba Press, 2013.

  Fasano, A., et al. “Prevalence of Celiac Disease in At-Risk and Not-At-Risk Groups.” Frontiers in Celiac Disease. Basel: Karger, 2008.

  Federoff, Nina, and Nancy Marie Brown. Mendel in the Kitchen. Washington, DC: Joseph Henry, 2006.

  Fernandez-Armesto, Felipe. Near a Thousand Tables: A History of Food. New York: The Free Press, 2002.

  Fisher, M. F. K. The Art of Eating. New York: Wiley, 2004.

  Freeman, Hugh. “Celiac Disease: A Disorder Emerging from Antiquity, Its Evolving Classification and Risk, and New Potential Treatment Paradigms.” Gut and Liver 9 (1), January 2015.

  Gandolfi, L., et al. “Prevalence of Celiac Disease Among Blood Donors in Brazil.” American Journal of Gastroenterology, 2000.

  Garnsey, Peter. Cities, Peasants and Food in Classical Antiquity: Essays in Social and Economic History. Edited by Walter Scheidel. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 1998.

  Gessendorfer, B., et al. “Preparation and Characterization of Enzymatically
Hydrolyzed Prolamins from Wheat, Rye, and Barley as References for the Immunochemical Quantitation of Partially Hydrolyzed Gluten.” Analytical and Bioanalytical Chemistry 395 (6), November 2009.

  Gobetti, M., et al. “Sourdough Lactobacilli and Celiac Disease.” Food Microbiology 2, April 24, 2007.

  Green, Peter H. R. Celiac Disease: A Hidden Epidemic. New York: William Morrow, 2006.

  Grigg, D. B. The Agricultural Systems of the World: An Evolutionary Approach. London: Cambridge University Press, 1974.

  Gujral, N., et al. “Celiac Disease: Prevalence, Diagnosis, Pathogenesis and Treatment.” World Journal of Gastroenterology 18 (42), November 14, 2012.

  Harrison, Jim. The Raw and the Cooked: Adventures of a Roving Gourmand. Boston: Grove, 2002.

  Harrison, Mark. Disease and the Modern World: 1500 to the Present Day. Cambridge, UK: Polity, 2004.

  Herbst, Ron, and Sharon Herbst. The Deluxe Food Lover’s Companion. New York: Barron’s, 2015.

  Hollon, Justin, et al., “Trace Gluten Contamination May Play a Role in Mucosal and Clinical Recovery in a Subgroup of Diet-Adherent Non-Responsive Celiac Disease Patients.” BMC Gastroenterology 13 (40), 2013.

  Hornsey, Ian S. A History of Beer and Brewing. Cambridge, UK: Royal Society of Chemistry Press, 2003.

  How Can It Be Gluten Free Cookbook, The. America’s Test Kitchen, 2014.

  Jacob, H. E. Six Thousand Years of Bread: Its Holy and Unholy History. Translated by Richard and Clara Winston. New York: Lyons Press, 1997.

  Junker, Yvonne, et al. “Wheat Amylase Trypsin Inhibitors Drive Intestinal Inflammation via Activation of Toll-like Receptor 4.” The Journal of Experimental Medicine 209 (13), 2012.

  Kaiser, Peter, et al. “Healthy or Detrimental? Physiological, Psychiatric, and Evolutionary Aspects of Beer Drinking.” Liquid Bread: Beer and Brewing in Cross-Cultural Perspective. Oxford, NY: Berghahn Books, 2011.

  Kaplan, Steven L. The Bakers of Paris and the Bread Question 1700–1775. Durham, NC: Duke University Press, 1996.

  ———. The Famine Plot Persuasion in Eighteenth-Century France. Transactions of the American Philosophical Society 72 (3), 1982. The American Philosophical Society: Independence Square, Philadelphia.

  Kasarda, Donald. “Can an Increase in Celiac Disease Be Attributed to an Increase in the Gluten Content of Wheat as a Consequence of Wheat Breeding?” Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 61, 2013.

  Kiple, Kenneth. The Cambridge World History of Food. Cambridge, UK: Cambridge University Press, 2000.

  Klintzman, Robert. Am I My Genes? Confronting Fate and Family Secrets in an Age of Genetic Testing. New York: Oxford University Press, 2012.

  Koning, Fris, et al. “Gluten: A Two-Edged Sword.” Springer Seminars in Immunopathology 27, 2005.

  Kruizinga, Gilbert, et al. “Threshold for Gluten-Induced Mucosal Damage.” American Journal of Clinical Nutrition, November 28, 2012.

  Kurlansky, Mark. Salt: A World History. New York: Penguin, 2002.

  Larsen, F. J., et al. “Dietary Inorganic Nitrate Improves Mitochondrial Efficiency in Humans.” Cellular Metabolism 13 (2), February 2, 2011.

  Laudan, Rachel. Cuisine and Empire: Cooking in World History. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2015.

  Lauret, Eugenia, and Luis Rodrigo. “Celiac Disease and Autoimmune-Associated Conditions,” BioMed Research International: Article ID 127589. Published online July 24, 2013.

  Levi, Darline Gay. The Ideas and Careers of Simon-Nicolas-Henri Linguet. Carbondale: University of Illinois Press, 1980.

  Libonati, Cleo. Recognizing Celiac Disease: Signs, Symptoms, and Associated Disorders and Complications. Fort Washington, PA: Gluten-Free Works Publishing, 2007.

  Lieberman, Daniel E. The Story of the Human Body: Evolution, Health, and Disease. New York: Pantheon, 2013.

  Liebling, A. J. “A Good Appetite.” Secret Ingredients: The New Yorker Book of Food and Drink. Edited by David Remnick. New York: Modern Library, 2008.

  Lock, Carrie. “Original Microbrews.” Science News, October 2, 2004.

  Mager, Anne Kelk. Beer, Sociability, and Masculinity in South Africa. Bloomington: Indiana University Press, 2010.

  Marchant, John, et al. Bread: A Slice of History. Gloucester, UK: The History Press, 2007.

  Matossian, Mary Kilbourne. Poisons of the Past: Molds, Epidemics, and History. New Haven: Yale University Press, 1989.

  McGee, Harold. On Food and Cooking: The Science and Lore of the Kitchen. New York: Simon & Schuster, 2004.

  McGovern, Patrick. Uncorking the Past: The Quest for Wine, Beer, and Other Alcoholic Beverages. Berkeley: University of California Press, 2009.

  McGrew, M. C. “Ethanol Ingestion by Animals.” Liquid Bread: Beer and Brewing in Cross-Cultural Perspective. Edited by Wulf Schiefenhovel and Helen MacBeth. New York: Berghahn Books, 2011.

  Mermon, Z., et al. “An Orthodontic Retainer Preventing Remission in Celiac Disease.” Clinical Pediatrics 52 (11), November 2013.

  Molberg, O., et al. “Mapping of T-Cell Epitopes in Bread Wheat Ancestors: Implications for Celiac Disease.” Gastroenterology 128 (2), February 2005.

  Perkins, John. Geopolitics and the Green Revolution: Wheat, Genes, and the Cold War. Oxford, UK: Oxford University Press, 1997.

  Perlmutter, David. Grain Brain: The Surprising Truth About Wheat, Carbs, and Sugar—Your Brain’s Silent Killers. New York: Little, Brown, 2013.

  “Pioneer in the Gluten-Free Diet: Willem-Karel Dicke 1905–1962, Over 50 Years of Gluten-Free Diet.” Gut 34, 1993.

  Pollack, Andrew. “As Celiac and Gluten Sensitivities Gain Prominence, Drug Companies Race to Find Treatments.” The New York Times, April 28, 2015.

  Pollan, Michael. The Omnivore’s Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals. New York: Penguin, 2007.

  Prance, Sir Ghillean, and Mark Nesbitt, eds. The Cultivation of Plants. New York: Routledge, 2005. Available on Google Books.

  Proust, Marcel. In Search of Lost Time, Volume 1: Swann’s Way. Translated by C. K. Scott Moncrief. New York: Modern Library, 2003.

  Renfrew, J. M. “The Archeological Evidence for the Domestication of Plants: Methods and Problems.” The Domestication and Exploitation of Plants and Animals. Edited by Peter J. Ucko and G. W. Dimbleby. New Brunswick, NJ: Aldine Transaction, 2007.

  Rividen, Anna, et al. “Thirty Thousand Year Old Evidence of Plant Food Processing.” Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences of the United States 107 (44), November 2, 2010.

  Rubel, William. Bread: A Global History. London: Reaktion Books, 2011.

  Rubio-Tapia, et al. “Increased Prevalence and Mortality in Undiagnosed Celiac Disease.” Gastroenterology 137 (1), July 2009.

  Safran Foer, Jonathan. Eating Animals. New York: Little, Brown, 2009.

  Samsel, Anthony, and Stephanie Seneff. “Glyphosate, Pathways to Modern Diseases II: Celiac Sprue and Gluten Intolerance.” Interdisciplinary Toxicology, 2013.

  Sapone, Anna, et al. “Spectrum of Gluten-Related Disorders: Consensus on New Nomenclature and Classification.” BMC Medicine 10 (13), 2012.

  Schiefenhovel, Wolf, and Helen MacBeth. “Introduction: Assembling Perspectives on Beer.” Liquid Bread: Beer and Brewing in Cross-Cultural Perspective. Edited by Wulf Schiefenhovel and Helen MacBeth. New York: Berghahn Books, 2011.

  Scott-Mumby, Keith. Fire in the Belly: The Surprising Cause of Most Diseases, States of Mind, and Aging Processes. Reno, NV: Mother Whale Publishing, 2012.

  Semrad, Carol. “Refractory Celiac Disease: What Is It? What to Do?” University of Chicago Celiac Disease Center, Impact 1 (3), 2008.

  Serventi, Silvano, and Francoise Sabban. Pasta: The Story of a Universal Food. New York: Columbia University Press, 2000.

  Simmonds, N. W. Evolution of Crop Plants. London: Longman, 1976.

  Simoni, Theresa, trans. “Gluten Content in Beer.” SLV, 2005.

  Sinclair, Thomas, and Carol Sinclair. Bread, Beer, and the Seeds of Change: Agriculture’s Imprint on World History. Oxford and Cambridge, UK
: CABI, 2010.

  Standage, Tom. An Edible History of Humanity. London: Walker and Co., 2007.

  ____________. A History of the World in 6 Glasses. London: Walker and Co., 2005.

  Stevens, L., and M. Rashid. “Gluten-Free and Regular Foods: A Cost Comparison.” Canadian Journal of Dietetic Practice and Research 69 (3), Fall 2008.

  Stika, Hans-Peter. “Beer in Prehistoric Europe.” Liquid Bread: Beer and Brewing in Cross-Cultural Perspective. Edited by Wulf Schiefenhovel and Helen MacBeth. New York: Berghahn Books, 2011.

  Symons, Michael. A History of Cooks and Cooking. Champaign: University of Illinois Press, 1998.

  Tannahill, Reay. Food in History. New York: Broadway Books, 1995.

  This, Herve. Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor. New York: Columbia University Press, 2006.

  Thomson, Jennifer A. Seeds for the Future: The Impact of Genetically Modified Crops on the Environment. Ithaca, NY: Comstock Publishing Associates, 2006.

  Tommasini, Alberto, et al. “Ages of Celiac Disease: From Changing Environment to Improved Diagnostics.” World Journal of Gastroenterology 17 (32), 2011.

  Toussaint-Samat, Maguelonne. A History of Food. Translated by Anthea Bell. Cambridge, MA: Blackwell, 1992.

  Tovoli, F., et al. “Clinical and Diagnostic Aspects of Gluten-Related Disorders.” World Journal of Clinical Cases 3 (3), March 16, 2015.

  van Berge-Henegouwen, G. P., and C. J. Mulder. “Pioneer in the Gluten-Free Diet: Willem-Karel Dicke 1905–1962, Over 50 Years of Gluten-Free Diet.” Gut 34 (11), November 1993.

  van den Broeck, Hetty C. “Presence of Celiac Disease Epitopes in Modern and Old Hexaploid Wheat Varieties: Wheat Breading May Have Contributed to Increasing Prevalence of Celiac Disease.” Theoretical Applied Genetics 121, 2010.